Henriot 1996 Brut:
Very toasty, bready nose with notes of nuttiness and a hint of oxidation. A bit piquante with a sharp feel on the palate. More evolved than the two bottles tasted two days prior leading me to believe that this was an unrepresentative example. High octane acidity though, with lemon on the palate.
I also had this bottle in Champagne at the Michelin One Star restaurant Foch in Reims. Based on those notes and the two bottles the previous Friday I would definitely conclude that this was an off bottle, though it was enjoyable, just not compared to the better examples.
Jacquesson 1996 Brut:
Pure, clean and fresh. Very youthful with a yeasty aspect, a hint of sour milk, and toasted nuts on the nose. Laser like acidity with apples and toasted almonds on the lingering finish. Quite a lot of evolution and persistence on the palate. Very nice and à point. More elegant than the rosé, with a little more purity, though most likely overshadowed by its opulence.
Jacquesson 1995 Grand Cru Rosé Extra Brut:
Initial aromatics quite impressive. Again, very youthful with hints of strawberry. Far more masculine than the 1996, and very Pinot dominated, mineral driven nose. Firm acidity with a pronounced slate component. Opened up deliciously with expressive red fruits and a hint of oak. Quite complimentary to the food and holding its own unlike the 1996, which proved much too refined for fried shrimp with soy sauce reduction.
Chateau Simone 1996 Palette Blanc:
The color less golden than the Pinot Gris below, despite being six years its senior. Initially quite austere with anise/licorice, almost ouzo and fresh herbs on the nose. Intriguing and compelling from the get-go. Fat and round on the palate, although not overly so, with a nice viscosity. Licorice found there too. Really nearly white burgundy in character without any of the signs of oxidation I would expect from this vintage (maybe that is a bit harsh?). Really incredible stuff - so fresh.
Zind Humbrecht 2002 Pinot Gris "Clos Windsbuhl:"
Rather impatiently trying to make its presence felt before I even brought the glass to my nose. Assertive-though I could nearly write aggressive without feeling it an exaggeration-nose with notes of citrus (grapefruit) and spice. Almost a gewurz like spicyness to it with lychee as well. A lot like the smell of forcing cloves into the skin of an orange at Christmas. Sweet and big on the palate. Also viscous and high in alcohol, though holding it all together relatively well, like an overstuffed suitcase barely clasped, precarious, but doing its job. A little vegetal but not in a bad way. Grapey with some botrytis present. Very nice, and with the Simone a superlative flight.
1997 Cheval Blanc:
Youthful, slightly vegetal nose with notes of vanilla, yogurt, and milk chocolate. Very closed down and dumb. Plummy fruit on the palate, with some unripe banana peel, menthol, and smoke. Curious. Only really has it begun to shed its cloak of baby fat. Frustratingly reticent. Pretty mouthfeel, with good weight. Slightly out of balance with a touch of alcohol poking through. A very elegant and maddening wine. I'd give it another ten years. I can't help but feel like we committed what amounts to borderline infanticide. A delightful experience and a good wine, but has yet to really hit its stride.
1985 Pichon Lalande:
Great color. Hardly any signs of bricking at the rim. Green pepper nose with menthol. At first, this vegetable patch nose was off-putting, but I grew to appreciate it in the end. Great extraction. A Lot of body. I couldn't believe it was an '85. It has more of the weight of an '82 or '86 (though without the grip of the '86 vintage). Surprisingly masculine yet stately at the same time. Very pretty wine, balanced, alive. Drink up though as I don't foresee it getting much better than this.
1984 Cos d'Estournel:
Certainly a little past its best, but actually really incredible considering the vintage conditions. Seems like Cos never fails to surprise me in the bad years and disappoints in the better ones. Alcohol on the nose with a very present lactic character. Less vegetal than the Pichon, though arriving at that state of maderization which implies death. Great color though. Pretty nice on the palate, with good acidity. A bit woody. Past its sell by date, but worth the $30 I paid for it.
1978 Talbot:
Pure mushroom on the nose. Definitely a sense of the geriatric about it. Faded brick, nearly brown color. Green pepper (well, at least it is a consistent trend)and cedar on the nose. Incredible acidity though, most likely the only thing keeping it going. Not maderized, just really, really advanced. Very surprising. And interesting. Probably should have been drunk no later than 1992.
2000 Haut Brion(!):
Ha! Not giving up anything. Totally the trogolodite and unwilling to come out of its cave. Probably just set in for winter hibernation that I cant see lasting less than eight more years (though probably more). Wisps of smoke, cedar, and flint. Incredible texture. Impeccable balance. Impossible to assess. Drink after 2020, unless you like to be bored and disappointed by your first growths.
Leacock's 1966 Bual:
Dark brown color. Sherried-like nose with spice, pralines, and coffee beans. An array of flavors: caramel, spice, and figs. Great acidity. Salty and sweet simultaneously on the palate. Very good, though I can't help but feel that we could have spent one third of the price we paid for it on a bottle of ten year and been just as happy. Probably a little overpriced.
No comments:
Post a Comment