2005 Frederic Magnien Burgundies

On Wednesday of this past week I took out three of Frederic Magnien's stellar 2005 Burgundies. A bit of history: Frédéric Magnien represents the fifth generation of Magniens making wine in Burgundy. After studying viticulture at the Lycée Viticole in Beaune, he worked for Jean-Noël Gagnard in Chassagne Montrachet. In 1987 he invested in his father's winery, Domaine Michel Magnien, and worked side by side with him until 1991. In 1992 he worked for four months in the US at Calera and six months in Australia at Bannockburn. In 1993 he returned to Burgundy to attend the university at Dijon where he received a degree in Oenolgy. In 1995 he founded his eponymous negociant house. He works closely with grape growers throughout the Côte de Nuits, selecting grapes from parcels of old vines with an average of 40 years of age.

The line-up consisted of his AC Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru "Coeur de Pierres," and Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru "Coeur de Roches."

The AC Bourgogne Pinot Noir at first sniff could almost be mistaken for California Pinot it is so generous with its fruit. Fresh, and clean, showing varietal typicity, though not necessarily terroir. This is a wine to lure the New World to the Old. Vibrant on the palate, smooth, and easy to drink. This is lieu-dit wine at its finest, without any of the harsh edges or green notes one often finds at this level. Good value too.

Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru "Coeur de Pierres": This is a blend of different 1er Cru vineyard sites including Gruenchers, Noirots, and Chatelots. Very sexy, though restrained and elegant, one could almost go so far as to say, "coy." This is quite complex stuff, but hiding a lot, palying hard to get and actually quite perplexing. I had to sit and think about it for a while. Multi-layered, with a silky texture that unfolds on the palate and tantalizes, then tempts as its impression on the tongue very slowly dances off and away. Dark fruits mostly: balck cherry and currents. Sweet and ripe. But reticent. Lay in a couple of cases of the Pinot above while waiting for this one to come around in, say, four or five years (though it will have a much longer life span).

Nuits-Saint Georges 1er Cru "Coeur de Roches": Wow. More muscle. This wine swaggers across the palate. A total contrast to the restraint and elegance of the Chambolle. Big, dark, sweet cassis fruit. And a little of the barnyard. Thick and chewy with big tannins. More body and an incredible mouthfeel (consistent to all the Magnien wines). Serious stuff, very pure. This wine will age well and if the tannins integrate it will be a very, very rewarding bottle to drink. Wait about six or seven years on this, although it is drinking fabulously now. Not as intellectual as the Chambolle, but what it lacks in brains it makes up for in sheer hedonism.

Get your hands on some of Frédéric Magnien's 2005 Burgundies. I can't imagine you will be disappointed.