1990 de Suduiraut

I must confess to being a major wine whore. I'll go out of my way to taste nearly any wine, good, bad, insipid, interesting, disgusting, delicious. I am curious about every wine produced, from happy-mammals-playing-cards-on-the-label Shiraz to Chateau Lafite. But it is the truly special nectars of the vine that cause me to lose all sense of propriety and rush headlong through the tasting throng in order to get a sip of them, namely: Champagne and Sauternes...

I sat flipping through the pages of the wine list at L'Etoile while Scott directed his words at me from across the table. As I approached the end of the list I saw a sight that made me swoon, a madeleine like instigator down memory lane, and a tempting sight that forced me to focus my eyes with lecherous precision: 1990 de Suduiraut. Not only this, it was available by the glass for $20.

There I sat with the apple of my downfall temptingly sitting in front of me, begging to be picked, eaten, indulged in. Damn, I thought, pulling out the cash in my pocket. Twenty six dollars. I could skip lunch altogether and have a glass. Just then our server arrived and asked for our order. Soup and salad please. Nine dollars squandered. No de Suduiraut for me.

Regarding the madeleine comment: the last time I indulged in this wine it was at hole three of Swananoa golf course on the occasion of Josh Wood's 31st birthday (see the 1975 Bordeaux post for details of his 32nd). I bought a bottle (full .750ml) on sale for $50 from Sokolin and was saving it for the appropriate occasion. I remember it being fiery, very alcoholic and unapproachable for about three holes of golf. But by the sixth hole it had calmed down and started to show beautifully. Concentrated, rich, viscous, like fish oil. Stewed apricots and oriental five spice. Unctuously sweet. A delight. Josh made his paté, for which he is known. Lori made her croustades and salty black olive tapenade. Preserved fennel. And 1990 de Suduiraut while swinging at a little dimpled ball on the top of a mountain. Glorious.

These are the images that flashed through my brain as I sat, seemingly composed, reading through the l'Etoile wine list. Our lunches arrived during all this and I admit that the soup and salad were worth the nine dollars I was going to pay for them, though I managed to remain slightly disgruntled at having passed up the opportunity to try this wine again.

As our server (Eliza) took our plates away Scott requested the dessert menu. Well, at least I'll have a sweet note upon which to end the meal, I thought. The dessert menu included dessert wines as well, and there, staring out at me with sad little neglected eyes was the 1990 de Suduiraut for $20/glass. And then a brilliant idea overtook me and I knew I would be able to quash any remaining nostalgic urge to imbibe this wine: I inquired of the server, pointing to the desired wine, "how long has this been open?" Imagining that no one orders expensive dessert wines by the glass, I expected an answer like, "oh, two weeks ago." Thus I would be cured for I could not justify $20 for oxidized wine. She went to find out. She came back and explained that it had been open since Satruday night. Six days ago. Could it still be drinking well? She added that the manager says it stays fresh for about two weeks. "Yeah right," I thought. Scott must have noticed how desperately I wanted to try it for he asked if one pour could be divided between two glasses. "Yes." Eliza replied accomodatingly. "Damn!" I mean "Hurray!"

Kevin, the GM, brought us our wine. Telling us that it was drinking very well right now and that we had made a fine choice. The color was dark, foreboding, a deeper shade of amber-brown than the previous year. Was this a result of it being opened for nearly a week? On the nose it was lovely however, with candied apricot and notes of fig. Only slightly oxidative. the palate was luscious and inviting. Much better balance than the previous year. I could have sat there and drunk a whole half bottle by myself. Superb.

The bill, split into two: $26 dollars and change. I ended up using my credit card or poor Eliza would not have had a tip. So much for my money saving efforts...